A Travel Guide to Sri Lanka

All international flights will go into Colombo Airport (which is actually closer to Negombo). I would recommend staying in Negombo as your first stop, it’s far less chaotic and will ease you into your Sri Lankan adventure. We got our SIM cards sorted at an Airtel booth at the airport, which was relatively pain-free and cheap. Cost: £3 With our new data we booked a PickMe (app like Uber) from the airport to our accommodation - turn left out of the airport to the designated spot for pick up. Cost: £3 Christima Residence was pretty standard accommodation with a fantastic pool in a good location. We got to check in early (10am) after travelling for 30+ hours so that was ideal. Cost: £18 per night (£9 each)

This is a perfect spot to fuel up after a long flight. The food is good and it’s got a really cool, laid back vibe. We loved watching the cats playing with each other (and the table cloths). The iced coffee was pretty good, the food was decent and well priced. Cost £11: 1x Coffee + 2 Breakfast

Pretty pleasant beach, we enjoyed relaxing and watching the sunset here. Timings: 3-4 hours

This traditional Sri Lankan restaurant meant good quality and big portions at a low price. Cost £8: 1x Large Beer + 2 Meals

TOP RECOMMENDATION We found this little gem in a lonely planet guide and it was one of the best breakfasts I’ve had in Sri Lanka and Alex thoroughly enjoyed the devilled chicken. We decided to walk there to explore more of the area but you could easily hail a tuktuk for a couple of quid. Cost £11: 1x Affogato, 1x Breakfast, 1x Lunch Express Meal with Coke

We’d seen this place recommended in a few blogs but in all honesty it was nothing special. Maybe we went at the wrong time or the wrong day and you might get more from it than us. It was cool to see lots of locals hanging out though. Timings: 30 mins

TOP RECOMMENDATION This place was sensational. Big portions, generous amounts of seafood, just delicious. If you’re craving Italian then look no further. It’s got a bit more of an upmarket vibe with seriously nice interiors. Cost £15: 2x Beers, 2x Meals, 1x Garlic Bread

Negombo ➡️ Dambulla: Taxi, 2.5 hours, £30-£70 Local bus, 5.5 hours, £1.50-£3.00 Basic accommodation in a home-stay environment that did the job, it had a pool which was nice. Based between Sigirya and Dambulla. The hosts were wonderful, helped us with all of our activities and cooked delicious food. Location is really tranquil but also in the middle of nowhere, so if you want something a little more lively then I would recommend staying in Sigirya. Cost: £11 per night (£5.50 each)

TOP RECOMMENDATION Our hosts organised a tuktuk for the afternoon for us which cost £10. I have visited a lot of temples in my time but the Dambulla Caves were definitely among my favourite (pics 1-5). The intricacy and size of the carvings is mind-blowing, we spent a couple of hours checking it out. The views from the top are also wonderful and you’ll be sure to see a monkey or two. Entrance Fee pp: 1500 LKR = £3.60 Timings: 1-2 hours Top tip: Make sure you bring a sarong to cover up, or buy one from the entrance. We then went to see the Golden Buddha (pics 6-7). It’s worth seeing if you’re already at the Temple Caves as they’re very close by and it’s free entry. It is the largest buddha in this position in the world which is pretty cool. Entrance Fee: Free Timings: 30 mins

This place had really mixed reviews on Google but we thought we’d give it a punt as we had some time to kill. We actually really enjoyed ourselves, we had a free tour and learnt tons. We got a decent massage from some of the students (we tipped them a couple of quid). I think the point of contention is the overpriced shop at the end, however, you can choose not to buy anything (we bought an aloe vera cream for our sunburn and a cream for our insect bites which were ok). Cost: “Free” but I would tip a couple of quid Timings: 30 mins - 1 hour

TOP RECOMMENDATION This was one of my highlights from the whole of Sri Lanka. You simply have to visit if you’re in Sigiriya or Dambulla. We chose to climb Pidurangala Rock instead of Lion Rock for two reasons; 1) it’s a lot cheaper Lion Rock is about £23 per person and 2) we read a few blogs that visited both and they said the view from Pidurangala was better as you were able to see the iconic Lion Rock. Again, our hosts organised a tuktuk for the afternoon which cost approximately £10. Entrance Fee pp: 500 LKR = £1.20 Timings: 1 hour round tuktuk trip, 2-3 hours climbing/exploring Top tip: There is a temple at the bottom so make sure you have a sarong with you to cover up, also make sure you have sturdy shoes with you because a scramble is required (picture 3).

Dambulla ➡️ Kandy: Taxi, 2 hours, £15-£30 Bus, 2 hours, £1.50-£3.00 This is the most basic and budget accommodation you’re going to get. It is definitely NO frills. However, we loved it, the £5 includes dinner, breakfast, bed and a cooking class. The host is so lovely and we met tons of people here so as everyone gets together for the cooking class. Cost: £10 per night (£5 each)

Keep an eye out for monitor lizards and the various birds hanging out by the lake. You will get a reasonable level of hassle, we learnt just not to engage and keep walking. Timings: 30 mins - 1 hour

This place is a lovely little spot with panoramic views of Kandy. The pizza was seriously tasty and the 9” pizzas were just right for a big lunch. They also came with dips which were a big fan of (Italians don’t judge me) Cost £8: 2x Cokes, 2x 9 inch Pizzas

This is a really popular activity for tourists and because of this every man and his dog will try and sell you a ticket. We got ours from our hostel for a discount beforehand. I’ve seen better cultural dance shows but it was a fun evening regardless and I would recommend going. Cost pp: 1,250 LKR = £3 Timings: 1 hour

TOP RECOMMENDATION We were desperate to see the Ambuluwawa Tower because the structure looked incredible but also for the panoramic views (it’s worth noting that to get up to the very top it can be a bit of a squeeze!). Although it’s quite a way out of the city it’s a pretty epic day trip. We hired a tuktuk for the day which cost £20. Entrance Fee pp: 1000 LKR = £2.40 Timings: 2 hour round tuktuk trip, 2 hours to explore

Our tuktuk driver then took us to the royal botanical gardens which we absolutely loved. You will see monkeys, bats and tons of different birds. The palm trees are so impressive and overall it was just really well maintained. I wouldn’t have minded having even longer here to relax with a book. Entrance Fee pp: 1500 LKR = £3.60 Timings: 2 hours

Our tuktuk drivers final stop for the day was the big buddha, you can see this from practically everywhere in Kandy but it was amazing to get up close, it’s a super tranquil spot and you will likely see a couple of monks wandering around. You can actually climb up the statue too for panoramic views of the city. Cost: 200 LKR = 0.48p Timings: 30 mins Top tip: You will need to bring a sarong to cover up

TOP RECOMMENDATION Today you will start one of the most iconic train journeys in Sri Lanka (and probably the world); the Kandy - Ella train ride. We would strongly encourage you to break up your journey by stopping at Nuwara Eliya aka Little England (due to its cool temperatures, colonial-style buildings and leafy suburbs) before you get to Ella. This place was an absolute gem and one of my favourites. I would strongly advise booking online in advance, we turned up on the day and only managed to get second class unreserved meaning we had to stand for the majority of the 5.5 hours in the unreserved carriage which wasn’t a great experience. If possible make sure you sit on the right hand side of the train for the best views. Cost: 800 LKR = £1.90

We decided to splash out a bit after our hostel in Kandy and this place was great. Fab location, really clean, comfy bed and the hosts were lovely. Cost: £17 per night (£8.50 each)

Once we’d settled in we decided to have a wander around, Victoria Park was a lovely little green space in the centre which was nice enough to walk around. Entrance Fee pp: 300 LKR = £0.72 Timings: 30 mins - 1 hour

You have to check out this building whilst you’re here, if it weren’t for the tuktuks out front you would genuinely think this photo was taken in England.

We set off walking to lovers leap waterfall from our accommodation which was a two hour round trip. It was a beautiful walk and we got to see lots of the coffee workers. The waterfall at the end was the perfect reward. Timings: 2-3 hours

We stopped off at Cafe Noshers on the way back, which did great food and great coffee would highly recommend. It’s also a really nice chill spot if you’ve got time to kill before your train. Cost £13: 2x Coffees, 1 Breakfast, 1 Smoothie Bowl

TOP RECOMMENDATION We then got the train from Nuwara Eliya - Ella which took about 2.5-3 hours. This is the most iconic part of the journey so if possible try and get a seat on the left hand side for the best views. Cost: 450 LKR = £1.10

This spot was super cool to hang out at with lots of nice touches; mosquito nets, plug sockets by the bed, lamp, filtered water etc. the breakfast that was included is definitely one of the better ones we’d had. The only downside was that it could get a bit noisy, but we both have earplugs and are reasonably heavy sleepers so it didn’t bother us too much. Cost: £7 per night (£3.50 each)

We were craving Italian and found this spot. It was a really nice restaurant and had a good ambience. My carbonara was spot on but the spicey cream chicken lacked a little flavour. Service was really attentive. Cost £11: 1x Coke, 2x Pasta Dishes, 1x Garlic Bread

TOP RECOMMENDATION We woke up early to try and see little Adam’s peak at sunrise, it was an hour walk from our hostel and not a particularly challenging hike. The streets aren’t lit so you might want a head-torch and there are a few dogs but they seemed to be all bark and no bite. The sunrise wasn’t amazing but the views themselves were. Timings: 1.5 - 2 hours

TOP RECOMMENDATION Whilst you’re up and out you may as well walk over to the nine arch bridge which is 45 minutes away. This is one of the most iconic sights in Sri Lanka and it really is quite impressive, the times the trains pass are written on a sign as you enter. We watched a freight train go past and it was worth the wait! Timings: 1.5 - 2 hours

After all this walking you’ll be needing some fuel, we’d recommend heading over to Mandala Cafe & Bar which is a perfect chill out spot. We watched some kids play cricket in the field it overlooks. The prices are reasonable and the food is decent - we shared a sandwich and I would say the portion sizes are pretty generous. Cost £4: 1x Main Meal + Drink

We took the local bus for 50 LKR = 12p, however, it meant we were a little stranded at the bottom as it took a long while to find one going the other way. We would recommend that you hire a tuktuk for a couple of hours instead it shouldn’t be more than a couple of quid each. The waterfalls themselves were impressive but we went at the same time as a national holiday which meant it was absolutely heaving, so make sure to bear things like this in mind. Timings: 2-3 hours

Finish the evening with dinner at Cafe Samsara, it truly had some of the best traditional Sri Lankan food we’d had whilst out there. Cost £8: 2x Main Meals (lump rice) and 2x Cokes

Ella ➡️ Tissamaharama: Taxi, 2 hours, £50-£75 Bus + tuktuk, 3 hours, £5-7 The next morning we caught the local bus to Tissamaharama with the sole intention of visiting Yala National Park. We stayed at My Village which is one of the nicest and more expensive places we stayed all trip and it was absolutely worth it. We relaxed in the pool and watched an epic sunset by the lake. Not only was the accommodation stunning but the food was incredible. Great value for money too. Cost: £38 per night (£19 each)

TOP RECOMMENDATION The next morning we were up at sunrise for a full day safari, our accommodation even packed a little packed breakfast for us. It was one of the best days of the trip, we sadly didn’t see any leopards but we did see a lot of elephants (including a mum and calf), a sloth bear from a great distance, crocodiles, water buffalo, monkeys and various other bits of wildlife. It’s a long day 05:30 - 18:30 but so worth it. You can opt to pay an additional fee (I think it was about a tenner) for a guide which was SO worth it in our case, he was rallying the driver the whole time and constantly searching for tips on where the animals would be. Cost £125: 2x Full Day Safaris, including lunch and a guide

Tissamaharama ➡️ Hiriketiya: Taxi, 1.5 hours, £40-£70 Bus, 3 hours, £1.50-3.00 The next morning we caught the local bus to Hiriketiya, which is a beachy little surf town. We stayed at Barefoot Backpackers Hotel, this place is one of the nicest hostels I’ve encountered, it was super clean and had great communal spaces. We opted for a private room which was a great size and had AC which was much needed. Cost: £18.50 per night (£9.25 each)

We spent a blissful couple of days in Hiriketiya hanging out on the beaches, catching some rays, reading our books and napping. If you’re into surfing then I would highly recommend spending some time here.

Hiriketiya ➡️ Mirissa: Taxi, 55 minutes, £20-£30 Bus, 2.5 hours, £1.50-£3.00 Then we caught another local bus along the coast to Mirissa, we stayed in Riverside Cabanas which were lovely. The rooms were basic but it had a balcony and a pool so we were really happy with it. Cost: £31 per night (£15.50 each)

No frills, good spot for breakfast/lunch. English breakfast set menu was great. Cost £7: 2x Breakfasts

TOP RECOMMENDATION We went to go and see Parrot Rock which you absolutely have to do if you’re in the area. Make sure you visit this small rock island at low tide so you can climb up it. Timings: 1 hour Entrance Fee: Free

TOP RECOMMENDATION Again, another iconic view in Sri Lanka, the towering coconut trees are the perfect foreground for the sandy beach and blue sea, it takes about 10 minutes from the main road. Most people visit for sunset, but we found sunrise was much more serene as there was hardly anyone else around. Timings: 30 mins Entrance Free: Free

Deltanos was a great spot for dinner, the pizzas were thin and crispy, with a good amount of toppings. Pasta was nice, good portion size but would recommend the pizza over the pasta. It’s possible to sit outside on the balcony and watch the world go by. Service was really good too. Cost £15: 1x Pizza 1x Pasta + Drinks

I would highly advise NOT to go whale watching whilst you are in Mirissa. We’d gone in Canada a year or so ago and the experience was mind-blowing; they gave us so much info on the whales, it felt very ethical, they kept their distance and we saw tons of them. Here it was the complete opposite, there was no information about the whales - we were just told we were going to spot them, it felt like we were chasing them as several boats closed in on these giant creatures at record speed, they got way too close and we hardly saw anything (which I don’t blame them for to be fair). The waters are super choppy so both of us also got sea sick (which never normally happens).

Mirissa ➡️ Galle Taxi, 1 hour, £10 - £15 Bus, 2 hours, £1.50 - £3.00 Ariyadasa Guest House If you want to experience an authentic Sri Lankan Home Stay then this is your place. Our host was wonderful and made the most incredible traditional breakfast. The room is small and basic but it does have AC and was absolutely fine for a couple of nights. Cost £11.50 per night (£5.75 each)

Galle is unlike any other place in Sri Lanka and we found it super charming. You have to check out the fort and lighthouse first, the streets are all car-free and lined with some of the cutest shops. You can walk right up to the edge of the fort for a view of the sea and there are some little coves suitable for swimming too.

TOP RECOMMENDATION This place made my dreams come true, I’d been craving really fresh, healthy food and then we walked past this little gem. The Teriyaki Chicken bowl (L) was everything I needed, would highly recommend. Cost £12: 2x Large Poke Bowls

The next day we caught the local bus to Koggola, which is just 40 minutes by bus (£0.50) to visit the Sea Turtle Farm & Hatchery Koggola, in large I really enjoyed this place, you got to see a lot of turtles. A lot of them have injuries that mean they’ll never be able to go back into the ocean; swallowed too much plastic, ones with missing fins, ones that are blind etc. Our guide gave us a lot of info and spoke very good English. The only part that made me a bit uncomfortable was when they encouraged everyone to touch and handle the baby turtles (which we didn’t do), but we were assured they would be released into the sea. Entrance Fee pp: 1500 LKR = £3.65 Timings: 30 mins - 1 hour

We then took the bus 15 minutes back to Unawatuna (£0.50). We stopped by Toms Skinny Deli which was unbelievable, it’s a little on the pricier side but sooo worth it. We shared a chicken burger and I had an iced latte which was perfection. Cost £7: 1x Burger 1x Iced Latte

After a spot of lunch we wandered over to the Japanese Peace Pagoda, this place was really serene and has incredible views from the top. Timings: 30 mins - 1 hour

The name is pretty apt as jungle beach does feel very much like a jungle, the walk down is a little tricky in places so make sure you have half decent footwear. Its location makes it pretty quiet and we loved watching sunset here. Timings: 1-2 hours

Galle ➡️ Colombo Train, 2.5 hours, £1.50 If I’m entirely honest I wasn’t won over by Colombo and the capital turned out to be my least favourite place. It’s a big city with a LOT of hustle and bustle, but it just felt like a sensory overload to me. We stayed in CityRest - Fort purely because it was the cheapest place in the city. The location was great but that’s pretty much all it had going for it. Cost: £14 per night (£7 each).

We finished our last night in Sri Lanka with a couple of drinks in the Kingsbury, the views of Colombo were spectacular. They played live music and the drinks weren’t badly priced. It was a very swanky place and we may have felt a little underdressed in our backpackers wardrobe.